Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Is Zwart Piet (Black Peter) Racist?

I'm starting to think there's a pattern to blogging about the Netherlands. The first year you spend most of December talking about Sinterklaas and Black Peter before linking back to these posts in subsequent years because there's nothing more to say. While this is technically my second winter, the alien was too small last year to really pay attention to the festivities, so I seem to be spending most of this month talking about Christmas traditions as if it were my first year living here.

Last week the website Slate ran an article about the Zwart Piet tradition, calling it racist, and a thousand comments about the subject soon followed. I have to admit seeing blue eyed people painting their faces black, lips red, and adorning afros was shocking to my American sensibilities because of what the images mean back in the States.

But then again, so was seeing this for the first time...


... and learning my future father-in-law was among the marchers.

The large wooden cross that followed this procession wasn't burning, but instead carried a carved statue of an impaled Jesus, being that this is an image of Semana Santa, or Easter Week in Sevilla, Spain, not a Klu Klux Klan rally in Alabama. Although, I imagine many would mistake it for the latter which would make the Spanish racist because the white hood and robe always means segregation and lynching, not the Passion of Christ.

I guess the point I'm trying to make is that we see through filters which frame our perspectives, so while the character of Zwart Piet might seem offensive to me because of the history of minstrel shows in the States, to our alien he's just Sinterklass's entertaining helper who comes from Spain like one of her grandmothers. She's never seen a man of African descent and said, "He looks like Zwart Piet." Rather she mentions our black friend in London who came to visit and brought her a dress. Because she understands Zwart Piet is a character, not a representation of an entire ethnicity.

Now, if the Dutch perpetuated this cartoonish image of black people in their every day life, then I'd say they and Zwart Piet are racist. But they don't. There's a surprising amount of diversity in advertising, at the work place, at the local bar. People of color play people of color in the movies and T.V. shows here, unlike in Hollywood where white men still paint their faces black for a laugh (Robert Downey Jr. in Tropical Storm being the most recent) -- or worse, respected black men play subservient roles to white masters in mainstream films, like Will Smith in The Legend of Bagger Vance. You can read about more movies you probably didn't realize were racist  here.

Am I saying that there is no racism in the Netherlands? No. But no more than in the States, Spain, England and probably where you live. Just like there are crazy right-wing politicians getting elected to office in every country. As a species, crisis tends to bring out the worse in humanity, it seems, no matter the nationality. In other words, Geert Welders is no more representative of the Dutch people than Rick Perry who hunted at a place called "Niggerland," or Hermain Cain who recommended electrocuting illegal immirgants, are of Americans.

Traditions evolve and Stinkerklass and Zwart Piet have too. The man in the beard no longer beats bad boys and girls with a switch and his helpers, the Black Peters, are not his servants. I see the festivities more analogous to a circus with Sinterklaas the papel inspired ring master and the Peters are his renassaince inspired clowns, without whom there is no show. Who knows? Maybe, in the future Sinterklaas will be fat and black with his Peters white, but would that be insulting albinos?

I remember as a child Columbus Day was celebrated in the States with parades and a day off school honoring the mythical man. Later on a more realistic picture was painted of him, including his enslavement of the indigenous population in the spice trade. Of course, we Americans don't extend such honesty or racial sensitivity to a more cherished holiday, Thanksgiving, or to our favorite pro-sport, the NFL.

Ask a Native American what they think of the term Redskin for not just a team, but one in the nation's capital, and most will say it's on par with the n-word. Yet, every Sunday for 18-weeks a year, millions of people watch the team, celebrate them and buy their gear. Some dress up like this...






















Now, are they racist?

Monday, December 12, 2011

Amsterdam Dungeon

One of the benefits of blogging is that I'm sometimes given free tickets to Amsterdam attractions in return for writing a review. Last weekend for example, my wife and I were able to enjoy a date at the Amsterdam Dungeon where she clung to my arm, fearing for her life, making me feel quite manly as I protected her from the evil spirits lurking around every corner.

Less a museum than an interactive experience, the hour and a half tour provides plenty of chills and scares. Guides, using a mix of Dutch and English in a way that sometimes sounds demonic, lead you through some dark chapters in the city's history from the Spanish Inquisition to life aboard a Dutch East India ship heading to Batavia (Jakarta, Indonesia) to the ghosts of Dam Square. The highlight for me was meeting the famous Dutch Painter Rembrandt van Rijn and learning of his insidious secret. The way in which the story was portrayed, using actors, animation and an eery setting, made me feel as if I had gone back in time as a fly on the wall.

So if you're looking for things to do in Amsterdam and like to be scared, definitely take time to tour the Dungeon. It's a great and entertaining way to learn about the sinister side of the city. Most hotels have passes with discounts at the concierge desk and if you're staying in the center, chances are that it's within walking distance.

Monday, December 5, 2011

Happy St. Nicholas Day & Other Christmas Traditions

Today is of course Saint Nicholas Day which is the main gift giving day in the Netherlands, Germany, and Austria, I believe. Surprisingly, it's not a holiday in any of the countries. Kids are at school and parents are at work with the celebration taking place later tonight.  In the Czech Republic, however, today is celebrated publicly, which means you're likely to see Saint Nicholas, an Angel and the Devil walking around the streets of Prague, battling over children's souls.

Grýlan
In Iceland, Christmas season doesn't start until December 12th and runs through Christmas Eve. Each day one of the thirteen Yuletide Lads, who are a cross between trolls and gnomes, visits children, leaving something in their shoe. Each Yuletide lad has his own name and personality with the final visitor being the their mother, Grýlan, an ogre with a giant cat who used to take the bad children and make them into a stew until a public decree in 1746 prohibited her and her sons from terrifying the local population.

In Poland, Christmas Eve is the main gift giving day and is celebrated with at least twelves dishes with an extra plate for unexpected guests. It is said on this magical night, animals can speak like humans. Hopefully, no one runs into a goose which is their main Christmas dish. Meanwhile, in Germany children see the Chritsmas tree for the first time on December 24th and spend the night decorating it.

Italy starts their Christmas season today, but like Spain, their main gift giving moment is the night of January 5th. Although, presents aren't delivered by the Three Kings, but a good witch named La Befana who as legend has it, got lost on her way to the stable where Jesus was born, so she spends the night flying on a broom stick, doling out gifts, hoping one of the children is the messiah.

In addition to exchanging presents on different days, countries also have different traditions. For example, in Spain, the centerpiece of the house is the Nativity scene, not the Christmas tree. In the Catalunya region, if you find the figurine of caganer (the crapper) among the donkeys, wise men, Joseph and Mary, you're supposed to have good luck the following year, while presents are delivered by a crapping log called the cagatió. You can read more about it here.

Any other traditions you can think of?

Have a safe and enjoyable holiday season however you celebrate it!

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Sunday Cat Blogging - 4 December 2011

Poor Max. He seems to really miss coming into the house. He often peeks through the kitchen window to see what we're doing and lets out some plaintive meows to make sure we see him. He also likes to come to the patio door and evil eye Rembrandt until he wakes up from his nap. Once eye contact is made, Max hisses, fogging up the window. But the sound isn't like a snake, more like a deep growl that you'd find from a cat in a pet cemetery. Rembrandt lets out a whine in response, as if asking what he's done to deserve such hatred. Max then hisses one more time, swipes at the glass and leaves in disgust. Who says animals dodn't have feelings?